Josh Herrin Crash - Yamaha R1

TNX ALENA

Hot ass

WOOW R1

NICE R1

ABOUT R1

Yamaha revealed the 2014 version of its YZF-R1 champion. The motorcycle continues to deliver first class performances as is equipped with a comprehensive list of high end technologies.
One of the most impressive technologies that can be found under the YZF-R1’s skin is the seven-level Traction Control system which is coupled with a three level D-Mode electronic throttle response control.
The motorcycle’s backbone is represented by a light yet stiff aluminum frame that was carefully forged to be a perfect match for the sporty character of the YZF-R1. Moreover, the rear frame is lightweigt Controlled-Fill die-cast magnesium, contributing to the optimum mass centralization.
As far as suspensions are concerned, the Yamaha YZF-R1 is packed with a front, fully adjustable 43mm inverted fork and a rear 4-way adjustable single shock.
At the heart of the Yamaha YZF-R1 lies a 998cc, liquid-cooled 4-Stroke DOHC 16 Valves engine which is kept in leash by a six speed transmission with six speed multiplate slipper clutch.
The superbike champion.
With back-to-back Superbike Championships in 2011 and 2012 and packed with MotoGP technology, the YZF-R1 is the most advanced Open Class sportbike on the planet. And unlike anything else. That’s because it’s the world’s first production motorcycle with a crossplane crankshaft. Resulting in incredibly smooth power delivery and outrageous torque for a rush like never before. From the track to the street, the R1 truly is"the 1."

• The YZF-R1 benefits from MotoGP® technology - a seven-level Traction Control system. The system has been developed so the rider does not feel any unnatural or harsh intervention from the system. In addition, traction control can aid in reducing tire wear due to less wheel spin. Coupled with the three level D-Mode electronic throttle response control, riders have 21 different choices available to tailor the YZF-R1 to their riding preference.

• This R1 keeps all the technological superiorities developed for its predecessor: YCC-T® (Yamaha Chip Controlled Throttle) is a MotoGP® inspired fly-by- wire technology used to deliver instant throttle response. YCC-I® is Yamaha Chip Controlled Intake which is a variable intake system that broadens the spread of power. The fuel injection system provides optimum air/fuel mixtures for maximum power and smooth throttle repsonse.

• In keeping with this machines exceptional cornering ability and crisp handling, the aluminum frame has been designed to offer exceptional rigidity balance.The rear frame is lightweigt Controlled-Fill die-cast magnesium, contributing the optimum mass centralization. Suspension includes YHSJ (Yamaha Hydraluic System Japan) front forks which use one of the tricks developed for our winning MotoGP® bikes: independent damping. The left fork handles compression damping and the right side handles rebound damping. And the rear shock adopts bottom linkage for optimum suspension characteristics.

• The sound on the YZF-R1 is unlike any other inline-four cylinder production supersport. The precise and throaty pulse of the exhaust note will have riders enthused every time the thottle is opened.
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• Crossplane crankshaft technology proven in victory after victory on MotoGP® machines provides a high-tech uneven firing interval. Unlike typical inline-four engine design, where the two outer and two inner pistons move together in pairs with 180°intervals, the crossplane crankshaft has each connecting rod 90° with a unique firing order of 270° –180° – 90° – 180°. This overcomes the inherent fluctuations in inertial torque during each engine revolution, and the accompanying peaky torque characteristics. Instead, combustion torque continues to build, giving the rider more linear throttle response with awesome power and traction out of the corners.
• Seven-level Traction Control System allows the rider to get more traction and drive while exiting corners.
• To maximize rider comfort as well as power output, the engine adopts a coupling-type balancer that rotates in the opposite direction as the crankshaft.
• This engine features forged aluminum pistons to take maximum advantage of the power characteristics. Titanium intake valves are lightweight.
• A forced-air intake system is adopted to increase intake efficiency by using the natural airflow during riding to pressurize the air in the air box. This contributes to outstanding power delivery characteristics in the high-speed range, while the design also helps to minimize intake noise.
• Slipper-type back torque-limiting clutch greatly facilitates braking/downshifting from high speed.
• The exhaust system is meticulously designed to enhance engine output while, thanks to its three-way catalyst technology, also reducing exhaust emissions. The silencer is a single expansion type, and the sound coming through from the unique crosspla crankshaft-equipped engine is unlike any other inline-four cylinder production supersport.
• This fuel-injected engine takes full advantage of YCC-T (Yamaha Chip Controlled Throttle), the MotoGP®-inspired fly-by-wire technology used to deliver instant throttle response. There’s also YCC-I, Yamaha Chip Controlled Intake, the variable intake system that broadens the spread of power.
• Have it your way, thanks to Yamaha D-MODE (or “Drive Mode”) variable throttle control. There are three modes that control how YCC-T responds to throttle input from the rider. The selectable “A” mode puts more emphasis on engine response in low to midrange rpm. “B” mode, on the other hand, provides less sharp response to input for riding situations that require especially sensitive throttle operation. The standard map is designed for optimum overall performance. Selecting the map you want is as easy as pressing a button on the handlebars.
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• The frame has a combination of uncompromising rigidity where needed along with carefully achieved flex for the precise rigidity balance this bike needs to give the rider the full benefit of its handling and engine characteristics. It is a sophisticated combination of Controlled-Fill die-cast, stamping, and gravity casting… the exact technology needed for each portion of this advanced frame.
• Front forks take a page from the championship-winning design of our MotoGP® weapon, the M1. Since both forks always move together, compression damping duties can be confined to the left fork, while rebound damping is precisely handled by the right fork, reducing oil cavitation.
• The rear shock features both high and low speed compression damping plus an easy-to-use screw hydraulic adjustment for preload. This unit also adopts a pillow-ball-type joint for excep tional shock absorption, road hold feeling, and damper response. To achieve maximum performance, a bottom linkage is used to work with the rest of the chassis refinements for brilliant, crisp handling characteristics.
• Factory racers get machines tailored to their preferences. Welcome to the club. R1 has adjustable footrests, with a 15mm height and 3mm front-to-rear adjustment.
• Top triple clamps add to the appearance of the YZF-R1, reminiscent of those on the MotoGP® powerhouse YZR-M1.
• LED position lights enhance the YZF-R1’s unique styling.

• Engine type	998cc, liquid-cooled 4-stroke DOHC 16 valves (titanium intake valves)
  Bore x Stroke	78.0mm X 52.2mm
  Compression Ratio	12.7:1
  Fuel Delivery	Fuel Injection with YCC-T and YCC-I
  Ignition	TCI: Transistor Controlled Ignition
  Transmission	6-speed w/multiplate slipper clutch
  Final Drive	#530 O-ring chain
  Suspension / Front	43mm inverted fork; fully adjustable, 4.7-in travel
  Suspension / Rear	Single shock w/piggyback reservoir; 4-way adjustable, 4.7-in travel
  Brakes / Front	Dual 310mm disc; radial-mount forged 6-piston calipers
  Brakes / Rear	220mm disc; single-piston caliper
  Tires / Front	120/70ZR17M/C 58W
  Tires / Rear	190/55ZR17M/C 75W
  Length	81.5 in
  Width	28.1 in
  Height	44.5 in
  Seat Height	32.9 in
  Wheelbase	55.7 in
  Rake (Caster Angle)	24.0°
  Trail	4.0 in
  Fuel Capacity	4.8 gal
  Fuel Economy**	33 mpg
  Wet Weight***	454 lb
  Primary Reduction Ratio	65/43 (1.512)
  Secondary Reduction Ratio	47/17 (2.765)
  Gear Ratio - 1st Gear	38/15 (2.533)
  Gear Ratio - 2nd Gear	33/16 (2.063)
  Gear Ratio - 3rd Gear	37/21 (1.762)
  Gear Ratio - 4th Gear	35/23 (1.522)
  Gear Ratio - 5th Gear	30/22 (1.364)
  Gear Ratio - 6th Gear	33/26 (1.269)
  Warranty	1 Year (Limited Factory Warranty)
  Price	$14,490

  * Price and Specifications subject to change without notice. Please read your Owner’s Manual and all labels before operation.
  ** Fuel economy estimates are based on US EPA exhaust emission certification data obtained by Yamaha. Your actual mileage will vary depending on road conditions, how you ride and maintain your, vechile, accessories, cargo and operator/passenger weight.
  *** Wet weight includes the vechile with all standart equipment and all fluids, including oil, coolant (as applicable) and a full tank of fuel. It does not include the weight of options or accessories. Wet weight is useful in making real-world comparisions with other models.
  Is hard to find any real faults to the Yamaha YZF-R1, as it comes with a bullet proof built quality, is reliable to the core and is packed with all the goodies expected from a bike of its class.
  Its 998cc inline-four-cylinder engine is almost vibe-free rewarding you with a linear power delivery and a tasty exhaust note and plenty of power.
  As far as ride and handling are concerned, the YZF-R1 feels heavier than one might expect, especially if you’ll compare it to some of today’s compact 1000s. However, on road it stays glued to the ground and lets you ride it as fast as you can without too much fuss. It is also very comfortable and once on board you’ll get plenty of leg room.
  
   

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YAMAHA

Yamaha Tzr

The Yamaha TZR250 is motorcycle manufactured and produced by the Japanese motorcycle manufacturer Yamaha between 1986 and 1999.
Yamaha produced road going 2-stroke motorcycle, loosely based on the TZ250 Yamaha racing bike. Parallel-twin, reverse cylinder and finally V-twin variants were produced. It evolved as a natural replacement for the popular RD 250/350 LC series of the 1980s. It has Yamaha Power Valve System (YPVS) which raises and lowers the exhaust port depending on the rpm of the engine, the YPVS servo motor starts to open at about 6,000rpm. In standard form 50 bhp is claimed at 10,000rpm. Although mid 40's is more realistic, and will not rev much above 9,500rpm in standard trim owing to the restrictive standard exhausts and ignition boxes.

Racing

Still raced in the Yamaha Past Masters race series with the British racing club - BMCRC. Racing engines currently claiming circa 56 bhp @ 11,000rpm. Racing pre-mix fuel ratios typically 1:30. Standard exhausts are difficult to improve on in terms of power and torque, but they are very heavy and impede ground clearance. Jolly Moto exhausts are popular replacements as they are lighter, produce similar performance, and allow better ground clearance.
In 1987 Mat Oxley was the first person to lap the Isle of Man TT course at over 100 mph, riding this model. An F3 racing kit was produced for a few years which included ignition boxes, carbs and exhaust pipes, helping increase maximum revs, power and torque.

History

Production started in June 1986. At a cost of around $6,000 new on release it was seen as an expensive bike for a 250 cc, but given that places such as Japan and Australia had 250 licencing laws in place one can imagine the stir that something that could hassle 750's on a track caused. 2MA variant being the UK variant and the 1KT model being the domestic Japanese variant. Variations between these two models being minimal, e.g. wording on the brake master cylinder in English or Japanese. Lighting arrangements were also different, to comply with UK type approval regulations, particularly the indicators were mounted on stalks rather than faired into the bodywork.
Then came the reverse cylinder version 3MA, then the V-twins 3XV. The variants followed the configuration of motor of the racing TZ250 of the time. Manufacture of TZR250s stopped in 1996.

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Fast & Furious

Josh Herrin Crash - Yamaha R1

10: Take a Motorcycle Safety Course

In most states, if you’re going to get a motorcycle license, you need to take a skills test. In many states, you also have to take a motorcycle safety class – think of it as driver’s education on two wheels. Even if your state doesn’t require you to take a motorcycle safety course, you should. The class will teach you about the traffic safety laws that apply to motorcycles in your state, how to respond to emergency situations on a motorcycle, and give you a chance to try out your new skills in a controlled environment. The instructors will also give you tips about motorcycle maintenance and how to avoid unsafe situations. After all, the time to learn how to recover from a skid on a bike is not when you go into one for the first time. Taking a motorcycle safety course prepares you to hit the road safely and with more confidence.
The good news is, most motorcycle dealerships offer motorcycle safety courses, and some even give discounts or other promotional materials to people who have completed their course. If you’ve got your heart set on a particular brand of bike, taking a motorcycle safety class from that dealership is a good way to get to know the brand better, and you may even be able to try out some of their models.

9: Get the Right Gear

We’ve all seen people on motorcycles in shorts and flip flops. Those people are not being safe. Since a motorcycle offers little protection in a crash, what riders wear is part of the crash protection system. Even if you aren’t in a crash with another vehicle on your bike, you could simply lose control and lay the bike down. In that situation, you’ll be sliding along on asphalt. That’s not something you want to do in shorts.
There’s a reason a lot of bikers wear leather: it’s strong enough to protect their skin if they slide along the road surface. Plus, motorcycle riders are exposed to other road hazards, like small rocks, bugs and cigarette butts, that people in cars are protected from. At 60 miles per hour (96.6 kilometers per hour), even a small rock can sting. Leather gear can help protect you.
Of course, you don’t have to look like a reject from “Easy Rider” to ride a motorcycle. A lot of companies specialize in armored motorcycle gear, and it’s not all leather. You can get vented motorcycle jackets that keep you cool while keeping you safe. These jackets are made of lightweight, breathable material, but have heavy-duty amour panels in key places (along the spine, torso, shoulders and elbows) to protect the wearer.

8: Protect Your Feet

The right shoes are also important to riding safely. To shift gears on a bike, you lift up with your toes – so open-toed shoes can become painful fast. Plus, when you’re riding a bike, you’re sitting on the engine and exhaust system, which get hot. It’s easy to burn your feet. Not only do open-toed shoes like flip-flops expose your feet while on a bike, they can slip off, causing a dangerous situation.
When riding a motorcycle, you want study shoes. Those shoes are the only protection your feet will have. Look for something with a rugged sole. Shoes with smooth soles make it easier for you to slip. When you’re at a stop and using your feet to balance, the last thing you want to do is slip and drop your bike. Motorcycle shoes should also have sturdy ankle supports and a low heel. You want something that makes it easier for you to balance. Look for shoes or boots in a durable material, like leather, for better protection.

7: Ride Within Your Skills

Riding a motorcycle is a skill, and like all skills, it’s something that you need to develop. While you may be fine to go on an easy cruise around town, it takes time to grow the skills you need to be an expert rider. To stay safe, make sure that you always ride within your skill level. Your friends who have been riding longer may be able to go super fast, weave in and out of traffic, or control their bikes on curvy roads, but that doesn’t mean you should. Take the time to build your skills and only ride in situations where you know your skills are up to the job.
Of course, you should still challenge yourself — that’s how your skills grow — but you need to do it in a safe, controlled way. Many motorcycle dealerships offer advanced riding courses where you can practice more advanced maneuvers. And, if you’re interested in motorcycle sports, it’s easy to find a racing school. Those schools are not only fun, but they help you safely build your skills so that you’re safer on the road.

6: Avoid Distraction

We all know distracted driving is a bad idea, but it’s worse when you’re riding a bike. One of the keys to staying safe on a motorcycle is staying hyper-aware of everything that’s going on around you. Remember, motorcycles are tough for drivers to see –especially drivers in large cars or SUVs. You need to see and avoid them, rather than bet on them seeing you. If you’re fiddling with your phone or iPod, you’re reaction time is cut by several precious seconds, putting you at higher risk of a collision. And running into a Chevy Suburban while going 60 miles per hour (96.6 kilometers per hour) is no one’s idea of a good time.
In addition to the risk of distraction, taking your hands off your bike lessens your control more than taking your hands off the wheel of your car. Not only is steering compromised, but so is braking, accelerating and shifting. It’s just a bad idea.
If you’re on a bike, remove all temptation for distraction. Don’t wear headphones, and put your phone where you can’t get to it.

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5: Leave Enough Space

One of the biggest mistakes drivers and motorcycle riders make is not leaving enough stopping distance for bikes. While it’s true that since bikes are smaller and lighter than cars, they need less space to stop and maneuver, they still need more than you might think.
Anti-lock brakes are still relatively new on many bikes, and older models don’t have them. That means that bikers can’t just slam on the brakes like a driver could. Their wheels would lock up, they’d lose control, the bike would drop and they’d go for an asphalt slide. Practice stops on your bike in a safe environment and know how much space you need. Then, make sure you give yourself that much space in traffic. Leave a generous following distance between your bike and the vehicle in front of you, and try to keep an escape route open to the side (onto the road shoulder, for example) if you can’t stop in time.

4: Watch the Weather

Because they aren’t as stable as cars, riding a bike in the rain is much riskier than driving a car. With only two wheels, you have half the traction of a car. Plus, without windshield wipers, your visibility is compromised. Finally, riding through the driving rain can hurt.
When you’re preparing to go for a ride, check the weather. If heavy rain, snow or ice is predicted, leave the bike at home. If you absolutely must ride in the rain, don’t ride right after the storm starts. When rain first hits the road, it brings up oil and other residue, making the road extremely slippery. If you wait a while, the rain will wash away the oil and slick stuff it brought up. Give the rain time to clear the road for you. Then, when you’re on your way, be extra cautious. Go slowly, leave plenty of space for stopping, and if the weather gets worse, stop and wait it out.

3: Educate Your Passengers

Part of the fun of having a bike is having someone on the back. Having a passenger with their arms around you as you cruise the open road can be quite romantic. But your passenger has a part to play in keeping both of you safe.
Make sure anyone you carry on your bike has the right gear. Like you, they should wear sturdy shoes and protective clothes. You should also practice having a passenger, especially if they’re bigger than you, in a safe place, like a parking lot. That will get you used to having the extra weight on the bike and the passenger used to how the bike feels, and how they need to move with you in various maneuvers. Make sure your passenger knows not to distract you, and what things like stopping and turning on a bike feel like, so they won’t panic. If you’re carrying a young child, check the laws of your state. In many states, you need to be over a certain age to ride on the back of a motorcycle.

2: Look Twice

This tip is more for drivers than bikers, but it’s so important that it’s worth mentioning here: Look for motorcycles. Motorcycles are small and tough to see. That means many drivers miss them, causing collisions that are often fatal to the motorcycle rider.
Keep your eyes and ears open for motorcycles. Lots of bikes have loud exhaust systems specifically to draw drivers’ attention. Use that to your advantage. But you still need to look out for quiet bikes. Look twice before changing lanes, and always check your blind spot. A bike may be there. Also, before pulling into traffic, look for motorcycles. They’re harder to spot than cars, but taking an extra second to look could save someone’s life.
For riders, look twice is still a good rule to follow. Never assume that a driver sees you. Ride defensively and take responsibility for staying safe around cars.

1: Wear a Helmet

The most important thing you can do to stay safe on a motorcycle is wear a helmet. Helmets protect your head, and head injuries are the leading cause of death for motorcycle riders. Your brain just wasn’t meant to be exposed.
Of course, wearing a helmet isn’t enough. You need to wear the right helmet. Lots of places sell novelty helmets that look good but don’t protect you. Look for a Department of Transportation-approved helmet. Those helmets have been tested and provide a minimum standard of protection.
Make sure your helmet fits properly. It shouldn’t be too tight or too loose. It shouldn’t obstruct your vision, but it should cover most of your head. For more protection, opt for a full-face helmet with protection all the way around. A simple windshield can at least protect your face from bugs, rocks and rain, but a full-face helmet will have a piece that goes around your chin, so your face won’t make contact with the road.